The alluring femininities of Italian cinema possess the imagination long after the reels run out. With their storm and grace, their spirits electrify the mind and spark new fancies. For the Blumarine Fall-Winter 2025 Collection, David Koma conceives a narrative expression inspired by the multifaceted characters and actresses of Italian film.
Constructing a muse embodied by the romanticism and rigour of these heroines, the creative director embraces a cinematic fantasy founded in the dark exoticism of Sicily and the intriguing exuberance of the women who inhabit it on screen. With the black sands of Stromboli as its proverbial backdrop, the collection stages an instinctive meeting between the romanticism of Blumarine and the modernism of David Koma.
The atmosphere is expressed in an emotional palette of blood red and lipstick red against black, dark grey and whites. The Sicilian thistle – at once fragile and assertive – becomes a leitmotif for the collection, illustrated in prints, embroideries and hardware embellishments. In contrast, the nuances of delicate botany renderings – likewise executed in prints and embroideries – are solidified in accents of blues and pinks. The palette paints a seductive silhouette suspended between romantic fluidity and stark structure. Characteristic to the expression of David Koma, metal adornment features throughout the collection – interpreted in flowers, eyelets, studs, rings and pailettes – contrasted by three-dimensional flower and butterfly textures crafted through fabric embroideries and cut-outs.
Coats and cabans – some trimmed with shearling – are imbued with corseted lines echoed in the bustier construction of tailored jackets with madonna necklines, and paired with voluminous or narrow trousers that caress the ankle. The sensual strictness mirrors in the modernism of sculptural scuba jackets, dresses and skirts structured on A-line crinolines, as well as crêpe tailoring and dresses. Exercising the savoir-faire of Blumarine, fully-boned bustier dresses are formed from crinolines bonded with Chantilly lace and cinched with georgette foulards. The sleek surfaces are interrupted by the furry textures of shearling greatcoats and corset-structured jackets effervesced with shearling. Their sensibility lingers in pieces crafted in cow hair, in leather shirts and mini-dresses with sculpted sweetheart necklines, and denim with three-dimensional embellishment.
The shirt inherent to the Italian women’s wardrobe serves as a starting point for flou expressed in buoyant silhouettes spanning the bohemian and the darkly romantic. They take form in georgette and chiffon exercised in asymmetric volumes with billowing drapes, crinkled and smocked peasant blouses and dresses, and wafty chemisiers with lace cuffs and sashes. Created in jersey viscose, draped-neckline bodies feature fold-over skirts, ruched dresses drape into large back bows, and long dresses are adorned with three-dimensional tulle flowers with crystal and metal embellishments. A sense of hyper-textuality abounds in shirts and dresses crafted in macramé flowers, Chantilly lace pieces with macramé cuffs and collars, and organza minidresses and shirts with butterfly print and appliqué encrusted with crystals.
Knitwear adapts the motifs of the collection in English-weave merino sweaters with cut-outs, chenille and nylon stretch-effect silhouettes, merino slit dresses with leather straps and buckles, and draped angora tops and dresses. Chain vests are interwoven with crochet flowers. Metal roses materialise across leather belts and harnesses embellished with eyelets, and in mixed metal chokers, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. The idea is mirrored in metal thistle jewellery as well as crystal pieces. The metal rose also features on the pointed toe of thigh-high boots in stretch patent leather, lycra or floral-embroidered scuba, as well as stiletto sandals. Crafted with cow hair, shearling, lacing or eyelets, knee-high boots reflect the themes of the collection. Pump sandals appear in leather with flower embellishments, and sling-backs cut close to the toe are structured with PVC inserts.
Evoking a derrière outline, Blumarine’s lip-shaped Kiss Me bag silhouette is reversed in a new messenger bag crafted in leather or zebra-printed, red or black cow hair with shearling details, in three sizes. It also appears as an evening bag with ring trims and metal rose pendants. A butterfly-shaped flat evening bag features in leather or cow hair with all-over eyelet embellishment. A toy bag conceived in cow hair in zebra print or solid colour is carried in a metal handle forged in the shape of thistles. It also materialises in leather with metal hardware, and in patent leather with eyelets laced with leather string.
