Presented at nightfall in the enchanting location of West Lake, the CHANEL 2024/25 Métiers d’art collection is a dreamlike voyage from Paris to Hangzhou. In this great historic city and tech capital, the collection is inspired by antique Coromandel screens, objects of the intimate sphere and works of art in Chinese lacquer that Gabrielle Chanel loved to surround herself with.
One of them was so beautiful that she put it up on the study walls in her apartment at 31, rue Cambon, in Paris. It depicts scenes from everyday life of yesteryear, set against the backdrop of Hangzhou’s West Lake, the very place where CHANEL has chosen to unveil its 2024/25 Métiers d’art collection, dedicated to allure, travel and dreams.
A singular dynamic runs through this collection, which revisits the creative universe of Gabrielle Chanel, her stylistic vocabulary and her deepest inspirations, through the savoir-faire of the Maisons d’art gathered at le19M. For the event, director Wim Wenders used his aesthetic and storytelling skills to create a film starring Tilda Swinton, Leah Dou and Xin Zhilei, all three ambassadors for the House.
Long, shouldered coats for day and night, in precious tweeds, satin, velvet or embroidered with little flowers, are enveloping and imbued with mystery. Duffle coats, short or oversized jackets are embellished with frogging made by Paloma, and lined with silk satin. The silkiness of the pockets, pagoda sleeves, mandarin collars and phosphorescent braids embroidered by Atelier Montex radiates with gentle luminescence. A refined luxury and meticulous detailing, both visible and hidden.
Straight-cut jackets belted at the waist, jackets buttoned at the side and tuxedo jackets lined in white satin are worn over skirts with pleats for added volume, wrap skirts, culottes and cropped trousers. The travelling theme is also reflected in the bags (travel bags, vanity cases) and knitwear, including an exceptional jumpsuit with Coromandel screen motifs that appears under suits. T-shirts, bustiers, cardigans, skirts, dresses, bermuda shorts and trousers in cotton or tweed knit fabrics, floral or two-tone, are worn layered with elegance. Multiple graphic pockets featuring on bags and the fronts of jackets, suggest letter-writing thanks to their envelope-like form.
Floral camellia and lotus motifs embroidered by Lesage run the length of a long dress with a pleated and ruffled plastron, of a suit, sometimes even swathing the entire piece, and are a direct nod to the panels of Mademoiselle’s screens. Jade green, pink and sky blue evoke the brilliance of their lacquer. Faded blue jeans recall the ripples on the surface of the lake water, while black, brown and darker tones reference the wood of the panels and velvety steps into the night. Footwear comes as thigh boots and pointed slippers in black patent leather, as well as comfortable mid-calf boots made by Massaro, like those favoured by Gabrielle Chanel. Some are reflective with the most remarkable embroidery by Lesage. Flowers, fruits (a tribute to the ancient prunus from China), ribs made by the passage of time on the surface of earthenware objects inspire medallions and cuffs made by Goossens. Hats made by Maison Michel, beanie hats and scarves complete the silhouettes.
The sensual, romantic theme of the night is expressed through an exceptional work of pleating and flounces by Lemarié and Lognon, embroideries and inlaid or lacquered laces on blouses with plastrons and ruff collars, very long dresses and skirts, negligees and pyjamas, as well as a long dress in gold lace emblematic of Gabrielle Chanel’s own allure. Fleece pieces, pillow handbags and cloud-shaped pearl necklaces all lead us into the cushioned douceur of the dream world.
Through the luxury of its materials, the savoir-faire of the CHANEL Maisons d’art, the dynamics of its layering and the romanticism of its refinement, the 2024/25 Métiers d’art collection is an invitation to an inner journey around the world.
